Tips & Techniques
Jigs for Springtime Lunkers Part II |
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April, 2009
By
Tom Redington
Last month I wrote about getting your gear set up for jig fishing in the
spring. Now that you’re all rigged up, here’s how you use it to catch some
of the biggest bass that swim in your lake.
Start your jig fishing by choosing a likely location. Remember that big
female bass are working their way to shallow spawning flats early in the
spring and then back out to deep water after they finish. Intercept the
bass as they travel along these routes by concentrating on areas with
thick cover or with quick drops to deeper water, preferably both.
Especially after cold fronts, bass hunker down by the thickest available
cover or fall back to the first deeper water. While they won’t be as
active, the bass often group up in small areas and the fishing can be
fantastic once the honey holes are located. Therefore, key on grass, rock,
wood, docks, or any other cover along creek channels and on points
adjacent to spawning areas. In addition, I catch a lot of bass on Lake
Fork Trophy Lures’ Mega Weight jigs on banks where bass are actively
chasing spinnerbaits and lipless crankbaits. Fish your jig on the edge of
the grass or near stumps in these areas and you’ll likely nab lunker bass
that are reluctant to run down faster baits.
Once you’re in a good jig area, boat position and casting accuracy play a
big part in your success. Working into the wind will allow you to control
your boat better and keeps you from drifting up onto key targets. As a
general rule, the clearer the water and the thinner the cover, the greater
the distance you need to keep between the target and your boat. If I’m
fishing heavy wood or grass cover in muddy water, I’ll get very close and
flip or make short pitches with my jig. Conversely, long pitches or roll
casts are required in thin cover in clear water. Learning to roll or loop
cast your jig allows pinpoint accuracy and a quiet entry into the water
from great distances, and this method also allows for rapid fire casts.
Kevin VanDam and Jimmy Houston are two masters of this technique, so if
you’re not familiar with the roll cast, pay close attention the next time
you see them on TV. Ultra stiff rods are tougher to make rolls casts with,
so go for a strong rod with a bit of tip, like the Dobyns Rods 736C model
I wrote about in part one. Learning to place your lure close to the target
and quietly is a key to success; as a result, improving your casting
accuracy is an easy way to become a better jig angler. Finally, make
repeated casts to likely targets. Remember that you’re often fishing for
wary lunkers that are inactive after a front. Place an easy meal right in
front of their face by pitching every nook and cranny of their lair and
you can often trigger a bite.
Speaking of triggering a bass to bite, it is often a function of working
your jig with the correct action and rate of fall. Since the preferred
action changes daily, you’ll need to experiment with your presentation and
jig set up until you find what works best. Normally, the majority of your
bites will come on the initial fall of your jig as it drops to the bottom
for the first time. Some days a rapid fall triggers a reaction bite, while
other days you’ll need a very slow fall to keep the jig in the strike zone
for as long as possible. For a faster fall, use heavy jigs, light line,
thin skirts, and/or small streamlined trailers like Fork Craws. For a
slower drop, go with lighter jigs, heavy line, and/or large and bulky
skirts and trailers like Hyper Freaks and Fork Creatures. When bass aren’t
hitting the bait on the drop, frequently the case in early spring, you’ll
need to figure out how to work it back to the boat. You can drag it, give
it small or large hops, shake it in place, or just let it sit. All of
these work at different times, and determining how much or how long to let
hop or rest a jig is a piece of the puzzle you need to decipher each trip.
Assuming that you’ve done everything correctly so far, sooner or later a
fish is going to bite. Unlike a plastic worm that a bass will usually
swallow before letting go, it’ll spit out a jig with just a little too
much pressure on the line as the bristly weedguard or sharp hook starts to
press against the fish’s mouth. Therefore, take up your slack and lift up
gently each time before moving your jig forward. Over time, you’ll develop
a feel for the resistance of your jig and trailer coming through open
water, weeds, or wood. Anytime the resistance on your jigs feels a bit
heavier or lighter than normal, it is time to set the hook. Every good jig
fisherman I’ve fished with has set the hook a number of times on weeds,
limbs, or just a hunch. Basically, if you’re not setting the hook and
coming up empty on occasion, you’re probably missing some fish that are
gently picking up and dropping your bait. Of course, sometimes you’ll feel
a large thump or you’ll about have the rod jerked out of your hands, but
normally it is a much subtler clue, especially for the big fish. In
addition, pay close attention to your line and watch it where it enters
the water. Any time your line jumps, starts moving to the side, or stops
falling in less time than is required to reach the bottom, set the hook
without delay.
So there you have it, my theories on jig fishing. Lots of variables to
consider, but control the ones you can by using quality gear—like Dobyns
Rods and Lake Fork Trophy Lures’ baits—plus your casting accuracy and boat
positioning, and you’ll have a good head start on catching a lunker. If I
can be of assistance, please contact me at 214-683-9572 (days) or
972-635-6027 (evenings) or e-mail me through my website,
www.LakeForkGuideTrips.com.
Tom Redington is a full time bass guide on Lake Fork & a FLW Tour pro. He
is sponsored by Ranger Boats, Mercury Outboards, Dobyns Rods, Diamond
Sports Marine, Lake Fork Trophy Lures, Costa Del Mar Sunglasses, Minn
Kota, & Humminbird.
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